Nope, I don’t mean actually getting into a boat and going fishing; I mean, should I eat fish or not? After all, I am living in Portugal, known for its amazing fresh seafood. So, why wouldn’t I?
For those of you who know me well, you already know the answer. The fish in Portugal is not served like it is in the US. Here, the fish is served whole, with everything attached. Nope, no way. The dilemma is that I like fish; I just don’t like it served whole. The fish in Portugal is renowned as some of the best in Europe and is deeply rooted in Portuguese culture. I really want to experience all of Portugal, but…
If you have visited Portugal, the chances are high that you have had one of the dishes below.
🇵🇹 1. Sardinha (Sardine)
Recipe: Grilled Portuguese Sardines (Sardinhas Assadas)
These small, oily fish are Portugal’s summer icon — especially during the Santos Populares festivals in June. Served whole on bread or with boiled potatoes and salad, they’re smoky, simple, and addictive. PS: August is a huge time to enjoy Sardinha here in the Algarve. There is a famous festival in Portimao, which is only about 30 minutes from our home. Will we go? Probably not :-(
🇵🇹 2. Bacalhau (Cod)
Recipe: Bacalhau à Brás (Cod with Potatoes and Eggs)
Though it comes from the North Atlantic, bacalhau is the soul of Portuguese cuisine. Salted and dried, it’s rehydrated and used in a vast variety of dishes — baked, stewed, shredded, fried. It’s said there’s a bacalhau recipe for every day of the year. The salted cod did not originate in Portugal but it is VERY popular. You will find a section dedicated to salted cod in almost every market. It kinda freaks me out I am not gonna lie.
🇵🇹 3. Robalo (European Sea Bass)
Recipe: Grilled Sea Bass with Lemon and Herbs
Delicate and refined, robalo is best enjoyed simply: grilled whole with lemon, olive oil, and sea salt. It’s often served with potatoes and seasonal greens. This is one fish that I sometimes can get as a fillet. It is a treat!!
🇵🇹 4. Dourada (Gilt-Head Bream)
Recipe: Asian Baked Dourada
Light and flaky, dourada is another popular grilling fish in Portugal. Its clean flavor makes it a favorite for summer meals and beachside dining. Dourada is also available as a fillet but in our experience it is only available prepared this way in the higher end cafes.
🇵🇹 5. Carapau (Horse Mackerel)
Recipe: Marinated Horse Mackerel (Carapaus de Escabeche)
Carapau is small but mighty in flavor. It’s commonly grilled or marinated in escabeche — a vinegar and garlic mixture that preserves and enhances its taste. Mike likes this fish, it is full of flavor and available in almost all of the cafes. Not my fav.
🇵🇹 6. Peixe-Espada Preto (Black Scabbardfish)
Recipe: Scabbardfish with Banana (Madeira style)
A deep-sea fish that’s a specialty of Madeira, this long, black fish is tender and mild. Locals pair it with sweet fried banana for an unusual but delicious combination. Our friends love this fish but we have yet to try it. I do not see it offered a lot but it is a popular dish. One day when we finally visit Madeira we will try it. ( As long as there is no head attached :-)
🇵🇹 7. Atum (Tuna)
Recipe: Grilled Azorean Tuna Steaks
Tuna from the Azores is rich, meaty, and flavorful. It’s often grilled with garlic and herbs or served rare like a steak. Tuna canned in Portuguese olive oil is also a local delicacy. We have not had fresh tuna here yet because it is normally sold with everything attached. Nope
🇵🇹 8. Cherne (Wreckfish)
Recipe: Cherne Grelhado (Grilled Wreckfish)
This firm, white fish holds up well to grilling and slow cooking. You’ll often see it in stews or simply seasoned with salt and roasted. We have not tried this one yet.
🇵🇹 9. Linguado (Sole)
Recipe: Portuguese Pan-Fried Sole
Light and buttery, linguado is perfect for a quick, elegant dish. It’s usually pan-fried with a dusting of flour and served with lemon. We love sole but it is often sold as a whole fish. This fish is easy to debone so cafes will often do it for us if we ask.
🇵🇹 10. Polvo (Octopus)
Recipe: Polvo à Lagareiro (Octopus with Olive Oil and Garlic)
Technically not a fish, but a seafood staple. Polvo is incredibly tender when slow-roasted or boiled, then drenched in olive oil and baked with potatoes and garlic. A must-try in any Portuguese coastal town so they say but it is a big NOPE for me. Mike loves it. In fairness, what we have learned is that Octopus has to be prepared carefully. I have only tried it once and I am guessing it was not prepared correctly because it tasted like rubber. I tried it when we first arrived here because it is such a popular fish in Portugal. Not only was it a nope for me, I dont think I will ever try it again mostly because of the documentary My Octopus Teacher. Once again, this is a fish Mike loves but knows better than to order it with me at the table.
Now I realize I am the odd duck out when it comes to eating fish. Most of the expats here in Portugal that I know have no issues at all with eating a whole fish. I am trying but not making a lot of progress. I did some research and found out why the Portuguese like to eat the fish whole. I thought maybe if I understood a little better it would ease me into the transition. Here are the reasons I discovered. They are very logical.
🐟 1. Freshness Check
Keeping the head and tail is a visual guarantee of freshness.
- Clear eyes, shiny skin, and firm flesh are signs that the fish is fresh.
- If the fish is already filleted or headless, it’s harder to tell how fresh it really is.
🍋 2. Flavor Matters
The head, bones, and tail add flavor during cooking.
- The gelatin and oils from the bones and head enrich the taste.
- That’s why whole fish is preferred for grilling or baking — it comes out juicier and more flavorful.
🔥 3. Traditional Cooking Style
It’s rooted in Portuguese culinary tradition.
- Generations of Portuguese cooks have cooked fish whole — it’s the way grandmothers did it, especially in dishes like sardinhas assadas or robalo grelhado.
- Whole fish is more visually appealing on the plate in Portuguese culture — it feels rustic, authentic, and celebratory.
💶 4. Less Waste, Better Value
Leaving the head and tail on means less processing and better value for money.
- Especially in markets or small coastal towns, you buy fish by the kilo — so keeping it whole is practical and economical.
🍽️ 5. Respect for the Animal
Serving the whole fish is seen as a sign of respect for the food.
- It reflects the “nose-to-tail” philosophy — nothing is wasted.
- In Portuguese culture, people are often taught how to skillfully eat around the bones and savor every part.
Fun fact I discovered
In Portugal, people often consider the cheeks of the fish (especially from robalo or dourada) a delicacy — soft, buttery, and full of flavor. You don’t get that from fillets but I still struggle.
Soon I will share a post about market shopping in Portugal. Going to the market is a wild experience and visitng the fish counter is even wilder.
To fish or not fish is still on the table but one thing that is still for sure is we 100% love our life in Portugal.
